Piles of dark green chard with bright white stems. Clusters of rough celery root. Preserved meats thinly sliced by hand before your eyes. And vendors insistently pushing soft dried figs into your hands. Try it! Try it! They wave at you and watch your face. The figs are a star here and Chad bought them by the bagful.
This is the green market in Split, Croatia. An almost-daily sprawling, lively tangle of vendors selling everything from produce to pork cheek to potted plants.
If you’re stopping through Split on a quick trip, the market is worth a visit for souvenirs (jars of local honey, homemade olive oils infused with herbs, packets of lavender to tuck in your pillowcase), snacks (figs, prunes, apples, plums, dried meats, cheeses), or a picnic feast.
For those staying longer, you’ll find pretty much everything your kitchen needs here on a Saturday morning.
How to get to the green market in Split
There are two markets in Split on either side of old town. The green market (showcased here) is alongside the walls on the northern side of town (here it is on the map). Stalls full of souvenirs and clothes line the outside of the market, so if it’s food you’re after, weave your way past those stalls and to the market square. Vendors are spread out throughout the square and grocery stores, bakeries, and butcher shops line the walls (pro tip: keep an eye out of the chicken butcher with the big NO GMOS sign out front; they’re popular for a reason).
On the opposite side of old town, you’ll find the fish market teeming with fish, shrimp, and other seafood. So if you’re planning a seafood meal, grab your produce and other cooking essentials here and then criss-cross old town on the narrow cobbled streets.
When to go
Saturday mornings are the biggest and best of the market, but you’ll find at least a few stands open pretty much any morning of the week. The earlier you go, the less crowded it’ll be. Vendors start setting up by 7 a.m.
What to expect
Fruits, veggies, meats, GMO-free chicken, plants, herbs, figs, prunes, nuts, cheeses, eggs, honey, olive oils, lavender, clothes, flowers, soaps, souvenirs.
The local language is Croatian. Occasionally you’ll find an English speaker, but mostly expect to pantomime when asking about prices.
Our green market purchases in Split
Our first week’s haul: 81 kuna ($12.38).
Second week’s haul: 118 kuna ($17.93)
What (else) to do in Split
Split’s old town is stunning and well worth wandering around in. Make sure to take back alleys and explore the lesser-traveled corners of the ancient old town. For walkers and nature buffs, a walk up Marjan Hill is a worthwhile way to spend a few hours. The views from the top of the hill down to the coast are excellent.
A short bus ride away, Omis is a cute little town sandwiched between rock formations along the coast. Hike from town up to the starigrad fortress (the hike is steep but the amazing fortress and views from the top are well worth it if you’re in hiking shape).