2019 has been a year of changing plans.
Chad and I decided we most definitely want a European home base and for most of the year, we’ve been working toward that goal. Researching visas. Figuring out next steps. Finding the places that feel most at home to us.
Part of this research was about answering the question: Where in Europe can we get a long-stay visa or residency without having to go back to the US?
Because most countries require that you apply from your place of residency. And if you don’t have a place of residency (hello fellow digital nomads), that means your place of citizenship.
For people who are already in Europe and want to live in Europe, that’s an enormous hassle. Not only is it a hugely environmentally wasteful move (another round-trip plane ticket to the States for no reason? The environment would prefer we not, thanks.), but it’s a waste of time and would cost us big in terms of health insurance and potentially change our tax situation.
So, no matter where we wanted to end up eventually, we knew our first move would be to get a visa somewhere that didn’t force us to leave Europe.
The three options that stood out were these: Switzerland (though rules on this appear to vary by canton/region), Germany, and Estonia.
The third option excited Chad a lot because Estonia is known for its growing tech scene. The country is throwing its arms wide to startups and tech workers. And Chad is about to start a new (and his third, I believe) tech business.
The more we researched, the more convinced he was that he wanted to check out Estonia as a potential base for his business (even if we ended up living elsewhere and he ended up spending some time traveling back and forth).
And so we decided to apply for our D visas.
Estonia’s D visa
So, what is a D visa? It’s a one-year (or less) temporary visa that allows you to live in Estonia. It can be extended for a second year. And after that, you’d need to secure residency if you wanted to stay.
D visas can be granted for a variety of reasons, but the most common ones appear to be short-term work assignments or exploring the possibility of adding your startup to Estonia’s growing tech scene.
So, what are the requirements to grab yourself a D visa? Here’s what we learned:
D visa requirements
1. A place to stay.
The officials seem pretty relaxed about what this is. We asked if a one-month reservation at an Airbnb would suffice (so that we didn’t have to book long-term sight-unseen) and they said yes. When you apply in-country, it takes them about 10 business days to make a decision on your visa, so a month felt like a good amount of time to book ahead.
2. Enough money to live.
Officially, this means 100 euros per month, but practically it means a lot more.
In Tallinn, long-term rentals seem to be around 500 – 800 euros per month on average. On top of that, you’ll need to pay a broker fee that’s usually the equivalent of one month’s rent. Plus whatever deposit is required.
Airbnb averages are well above $1,000 per month (though you will find studios or places farther from the center as low as $800). And anything less than a month will be well and truly expensive.
Groceries were a bit less than in other European cities, as were meals out. But the price difference wasn’t so staggering that you could eat well for less than 100 euros per month.
And then you’ve got transportation, household supplies, and any other expenses you might need to cover (like co-working spaces or weekend trips).
So don’t really expect to get by on 100 euros per month.
3. Reason for being here.
Typically, it seems that this visa is mostly for people with short-term work contracts, plans to study in Estonia, or long-term work contracts that they need to get started on right away (residency takes longer than a D visa, I think, so you get your D and start working, then start the residency process).
For Chad, since he’s exploring the possibility of locating his startup here, he went through the extra step of applying for a startup visa. This means a few extra steps before you apply for your D visa, including an application that must be approved for Estonia’s startup committee.
Details on that visa were straightforward and you can find them here.
My situation was a little more complicated. I was coming to be with Chad and also have a thriving freelance business in my own right. I wrote a one-page letter detailing my reasons (to write about Estonia in my capacity as a travel writer; to make connections in the startup community and possibly partner with tech folks on future projects; to be with Chad, who’d been pre-approved for the startup visa).
When I went in for my visa appointment (more on that in a bit), the person evaluating and entering my application decided my best bet was applying for a friends and family visa to “visit” Chad on his startup visa. Which meant I also needed a letter from Chad explaining our relationship and why I needed to be there with him. (Which felt a little unfeminist, like I had to get a permission slip from a man, but c’est la vie, I guess.)
4. Health insurance for the duration of your stay.
This one almost tripped us up. We both have health insurance through GeoBlue, which covers us in Estonia (and around the world). The insurance is renewed yearly. And when I’ve applied for visas in the past, that’s been fine.
But in Estonia, for the D visa, you actually need to show health insurance that covers the full length of your stay. Chad’s was up for renewal in a couple months, so at first they were only going to give us a two-month visa, at which time we’d need to apply for an extension.
Luckily, Chad was able to extend his insurance and we delivered the new proof of insurance before they approved the visas. My insurance was set for renewal in June 2020, so that’s when they gave us our visas through.
5. A passport with at least two blank pages that’s valid for the full length of your stay.
Check your passport expiration date and make sure you have a few pages left before you go through this process.
Honestly, if you travel often, I’d make sure you have more than two pages. You don’t want the hassle of having to figure out what to do if you need to get a new passport and the old one has the visa.
6. An application.
You’ll need to fill out an official application (available on the official website, linked below) and bring it with you to your appointment, along with all the other proofs/items listed above.
7. A photo.
Supposedly, you need to bring your own European-passport-sized photo for the visa. But the truth is that when we got to the border guard office in Tallinn, they had us re-take photos in their photo booth anyway. We were told it’s easier than scanning our old photos in.
8. An 80-euro visa fee.
We brought exact change in cash. They also appear to accept Estonian bank transfers, but I don’t think they take credit cards.
You’ll need proof of everything above, which means bringing a printout of your Airbnb confirmation (or other accommodation), bank statements, insurance confirmation letter, etc. It is always a good idea to err on the side of more rather than less. I also brought print-outs of magazine stories with my byline, my book page on Amazon, etc.
You can apply in Estonia at one of the border guard offices. But here’s an important note: You must have 10 business days left on your tourist visa. That’s about how long (read: a little longer) it’ll take them to decide yay or nay on your visa.
Now, once you’ve applied for your visa, you have the legal right to stay in Estonia while they’re making a decision. So if it takes them 15 business days and you only gave yourself 11, that’s okay.
If you are applying outside Estonia (which you can do at any of a handful of embassies that process visa applications), the process may take longer (up to 30 days, they say).
Finally, to apply, you will need an appointment. And you’ll need to book that appointment well in advance. My ideal time was actually booked by the time we were able to confirm our bookings, which was a month before the appointment itself.
That appointment is where you’ll bring all the proofs above and sit down with a border officer to go over everything and officially submit your application. After you pay the fee, you get a piece of paper confirming payment and you’ll be told when to come back to collect your visa.
If there are any concerns, in our experience, they’ll email you.
Looking for the official requirements? You’ll find them here.