First, some truth: Montmartre isn’t known for its food.
Is it one of my favorite neighborhoods in Paris? Yes. Are its cobbled streets and tree-lined avenues charming in the extreme? Absolutely. Do I stay here almost every time I’m in Paris? Yes, yes I do.
But ask any foodie in the city where to eat, and Montmartre probably won’t be on the list. You’re more likely to hear words like “touristy” or find where-to-eat lists titled Not Terrible Near the Sacré-Cœur (beware, though, because that list may be out of date; I’ve eaten at Jeanne B and it was the worst French meal I’ve ever had).
That’s obviously not great news if you’re staying in Montmartre, but don’t despair – there are still some gems to be found. And one of them serves up authentic flaky, buttery croissants that I pick up on every visit.
So, what is this fab little boulangerie pâtisserie (bakery and pastry shop)?
Maison Landemaine
Located near the Jules Joffrin metro station, they typically open their doors at 6:45 and close up at 20:45 (though on Sundays they open at 7:00 and close at 19:00, and on Mondays they are, sadly, closed).
They serve several types of croissants (and many other pastries and breads), but the ones you want are the croissants au beurre (butter croissants). They are the stars of the show here.
Expect lines out the door unless you go early (I went just as they opened on a Sunday this last trip, and there were only three of us waiting for the doors to swing wide). But even if you have to wait in line, it’s absolutely worth it. There’s nothing else nearby that holds a candle to these croissants.
Address: 4 Rue du Poteau, 75018 Paris.
Phone: +33 1 42 64 87 78.
(The above details are for the Jules Joffrin location; Maison Landemaine also has 13 other shops at this time.)
Price range: Expect croissants to run you about 1 euro each. (I was so excited about the croissants on my last visit that I failed to get a receipt, so this is an estimate, not an exact reflection of what I spent.)
What (else) to do in Montmartre
The Sacré-Cœur is the obvious draw here with its unusual and beautiful spires and its lovely views out over Paris. I also love the area near the Abbesses metro station and the cobbled ways around the Montmartre cemetery.
For food, I typically leave Montmartre and head to places like Colorova, Frenchie Bar à Vins, or Restaurant Philippe Excoffier.